From online retailers to internationally renowned brands, more and more independent European fashion companies are choosing to set up shop in Hong Kong. They’re drawn by the proximity to factories on the Chinese mainland, Hong Kong’s expertise in garment manufacturing and the lure of big mainland spenders.
While some expatriate entrepreneurs, including Ariane Zagury, founder of French fashion retailer Rue Madame, has found success distributing French labels such as Sandro, Maje, American Vintage and Claudie Pierlot, others are building their own brands in the city.
Gaining a Retail Foothold
Among them is French label Marie France Van Damme, which opened its first boutique at ifc last September. Its line of high-end resort wear has been selling in major international department stores, including Harrods and Selfridges in the United Kingdom, and Bergdorf Goodman, Sak’s and Neiman Marcus in the United States. Ms Van Damme worked in garment manufacturing when she arrived in Hong Kong more than 25 years ago, and was among the first Europeans to open a garment factory on the mainland.
After more than 20 years designing for high-street brands, including Marks & Spencer, she decided it was time for a change. “It became so competitive; buyers were looking for better prices every day, and I wanted to do something different and very glamorous.” She first presented her collection to Harrods, which immediately placed an order. Ms Van Damme has since partnered with such luxury resorts as One & Only and Amanresorts, which are among the 100 outlets in 35 countries that carry the brand.
Her neutral colour palette – black and white, gold and bronze – has become something of a signature and, from a 15-piece collection, the range has extended to include 150 garments. Ms Van Damme decided to open her own store, which allows her to feature a greater range. “I have worked with Lane Crawford, but they only took three of my bathing suits. That was great because the brand was only six months old, but I wanted shoppers to see more of my collection.”
Ms Van Damme plans to open a second store, in Bangkok, next month at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, and will also open a boutique in London later this year. Brand partnerships with other luxury resorts are also in the works to complement existing collaborations.
Reaching out to Bloggers
Another new Hong Kong apparel brand is Ro&Mo, which was set up by Portuguese-born friends Rosario Cunha and Monica Pinto Coelho, who is based in Hong Kong. The collections are mostly crafted from eco-friendly material, including 100 per cent natural linen, organic cotton, vegetal leather, and colourful and original fabrics, such as the African capulanas, a type of sarong worn primarily in Mozambique.
“The main challenge is the production,” says Ms Coelho. “We want to produce everything in Portugal and Spain, because we believe in their textile tradition and quality. Sometimes they don’t offer the flexibility in terms of creativeness, models and fabrics, so you have to find the right partners.”
Available online, Ro&Mo has received support from bloggers. “We did a photo shoot with three fashion bloggers, and slowly we are starting to be well-known in Hong Kong,” says Ms Coelho, who noted that attending art and design festivals has helped raise the company’s profile.
Parisian Spirit
Designer Tiffany Yan has transported her love of Paris to Hong Kong’s Aberdeen Street, where she opened her first boutique, Le 16 Aout, in March. After completing her studies at École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, Ms Yan worked with Prada, Louis Vuitton and Alexander McQueen in Paris, before setting up her label in the French capital. Ms Yan says she chose to open her first store, in Hong Kong, after witnessing the development of the fashion and art industries here. “I wanted to bring my Parisian life to Hong Kong, and display vintage finds and exotic gifts I find on my travels. All the items in the boutique represent a Parisian lifestyle,” says Ms Yan, who stocks other brands, including Linda Farrow sunglasses in her boutique.
Designed to enhance a woman’s femininity and curves, the latest collection from Le 16 Aout incorporates French lace, Italian prints and Italian jacquard textiles. “It’s about bringing baroque style into contemporary fashion,” says the designer. Following the successful opening of her Hong Kong outlet, which she views as a showcase for art, style and design, Ms Yan is considering opening a boutique in Sydney.
Building a Brand Online
Despite some cultural resistance to second-hand clothing in Hong Kong, French brand Mademoiselle Chic, which has a showroom in Stanley, has carved a niche offering established and up-and-coming designers at affordable prices. Founder Heloise Mendes knew little about the vintage design market in the city until she set up her business in 2010. “Second-hand clothing is becoming more and more popular, not only for economic reasons, but also because it offers a more sustainable shopping option. People in Hong Kong travel a lot, and many appreciate the quality of second-hand shops abroad.”
Word of Mouth
While her husband has been her main investor, Ms Mendes has built the brand through client recommendations. “The power of word-of-mouth in Hong Kong is unbelievable, both in local and foreign communities,” she says. “At first, I naturally developed an expat, mostly French clientele. But the potential to connect with young local shoppers is huge.”